PUFFINS!!

    

What a day!!!  We’ve determined that it’s rather difficult to look at a weather forecast in this area, as they seem to consist of words like “rain, showers, and bright” so it’s not that easy to predict what the day will bring.  In this case, we woke up about 6 to a really brilliant day.  Blue skies, puffy white clouds and lots of sunshine.  But – the question is:  for how long a period?  Who knows?  Shrugs!  So, we had our usual continental breakfast, and about 9 o’clock, headed out toward Birsay, to see how things were getting along in that direction.  As the Orkneys are located above the very top of Scotland, we have weather patterns coming in from a variety of directions – from both the east and the west, certainly, but additionally, coming directly south and sweeping in from the North Sea, which has quite a bit of clout in this area, for sure.  The currents are really something to be seen at the far north, and from Robert’s reading, the Churchill Barriers additionally have done things to screw up the tides in area as well!  All making for incredible wave action.  We have seen vehicles carrying kayaks, but so far, haven’t actually seen any kayaks in the water as of yet.  I’d be more than a bit cautious about putting anything in the water myself, as the winds and the currents are so strong here.  It’s amazing!

 

So … on our way to Birsay!  This time, we found ourselves at the Birsay car park overlooking the Brough Head peninsula without the rain.  There were only a couple of campers there before us, and R, being the intelligent fellow that he is, had calculated the out-going tide exactly right – the cement causeway was just barely out from underwater as we approached it!  (One has to be careful, as the Brough causeway is underwater depending on the tides, and it would be easy to be stranded if you weren’t paying attention.  That was why it was important to 1) know the tide table, and 2) make sure the weather was fairly decent for the crossings.). Also, there was a fair amount of seaweed – still soaking wet, and hence very slippery! – all around, as well as a very rocky shore both before and after the causeway.  No real signage at all, but once you come up on to the “head” you immediately enter into the Brough of Birsay.

 

Earl's Palace Ruins in Birsay

Causeway just emerging from the water

I'm the masked bandit!

Ancient Norse Settlement

Remains of the chapel

This settlement dates back to the 6^th century when a small monastic establishment was founded here.  There are traces of the chapel and graveyard which lie beneath the original Norse buildings together with oval Pictish houses dated to the 7^th and 8^th centuries.  The later Norse settlement comprised a number of dwellings, some of considerable size and wealth, but there was clearly a substantial community here in the 11^th and 12^thcenturies.  

 

To say that this small island is windswept is truly an understatement.  There isn’t a tree anywhere in site.  In fact, there really isn’t a bush or much of anything else, either!  There is just land rising up in the west, dipping down in the east, with huge cliffs all along west side.  (Sort of like the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland.). There is a lighthouse on the top, and truly, that’s about it.  As far as amenities goes, there aren’t any.  There is a small hut-like structure built at the Brough, and a sign is posted:  In case of Emergency, dial 999 and ask for: Coast Guard.  So.  There you have it!  

 

We made it across the causeway and started to climb.  R spotted three paths and asked which one we should take.  I said:  Take the cliff path, as I figured if there were any puffins to be seen, they would most likely be along that route.  And so we climbed.  And climbed.  We had seen some postings of puffin photos taken on Birsay, but whether they were taken this year, we had no idea.  We know they are here sometime during the summer for nesting purposes, but again, there’s really not much information.  You just have to look and trust to luck!  In our case, it was luck, and another couple who were actually behind us!  They caught us up on a cliffside, and spotted a puffin on a cliff ledge below and pointed him out to us!  Wow!  Then they went on.

Well, I REALLY like puffins, and even though Robert took photos, I, of course wanted to take MORE photos.  So, as I stood snapping and watching, a SECOND puffin came out and joined the first!  So now we had TWO Puffins on the same ledge!  Wow!!  Fabulous!  They were wonderful!  I did take a lot of photos, I have to admit – but it was wonderful to see them together.  I knew that puffins did nest on the Orkneys, but had no idea that we’d be able to see any while we were here (it’s a bit early) … so truly, my day and trip have definitely been made!!!!  And as I say, it was just lucky for us that we were able to see them!  So thank you, nice couple from the Midlands who happened our way!  Oh!  And the weather!  While we were puffin-watching, it did start to rain!  Where it came from, we’re not exactly certain.  In Hawaii, they call it “Liquid Sunshine” – but while this was certainly liquid, it didn’t feel at all like it does in Hawaii, I can verify that!  However, as the wind was certainly blowing a gale, it probably came from miles away.  Perhaps that explains why there are no trees or bushes anywhere about??  Nothing gets a chance to grow above ankle height?

 

Stunning Eider Duck

Gull on the rocks

Puffin #1

Lighthouse on top of the island

Looking toward the North Sea

Overlooking the settlement

Made our way (very carefully) up to the lighthouse and then back down through the settlement, and across the causeway.  SO glad we got there early, because now the parking lot was more than overflowing with vehicles, and people seemed to be having to walk a long way to get there!  (Again, the merits of getting up and out early!).  Back on the road, taking a new road this time as we worked our way back toward Kirkwall, where we just happened to run into the Broch of Gurness – an ancient spot on our list of ancient spots to see!!

 

The remains at Gurness date to the first millennium BC, when they housed a substantial Iron Age community of some status.  The focus is the central stone tower or Broch, which would originally have reached about 10 meters in height.  The tower comprises two skins of drystone walling, between which lie stone-floored galleries, accessed by steps. There is evidence that a timber floor was at first floor level.  The whole Broch would have been covered by a thatched roof.  There is, additionally an internal cistern with steep stone steps running down to it.  The Broch is protected on the land side by three rock-cut ditches with stone ramparts, with numerous small stone houses built up against the broch, where apparently villagers lived.  Besides being a defensive tower, the Broch itself was an indication of the wealth and status of the local chief.  The settlement at Gurness continued into the 5^th Century AD, into Pictish times, and even later, in the 9^th century AD, a stone lined grave was created for a Norse woman, laid to rest with a fine pair of bronze brooches and an iron sickle and knife.  The entire settlement, positioned as it was right next to the water, was truly striking – and again, more Liquid Sunshine along with the wind!  Truly, if you don’t like the weather, just wait a few minutes – it will definitely change!  

 

Remains of a Pict house built after the Broch

Defensive ditches outside the Broch

Entrance corridor to the Broch

 

Me in the doorway

Interior of the Broch

Definitely heading back to the cottage by this time, but decided to stop at Tesco for a few more essentials – R running out of tea, and we’ve decided to finish up the leftover pasta from the other night with salad for dinner tonight, and a few other odds and ends.  Also filled the car up with petrol, and back to the cottage for a rest.  R, who very seldom takes an actual nap (unlike me, who takes one every chance I get!) got a nice rest this afternoon; lots of walking today, that’s for sure!  Working out our plan of campaign of what we want to see tomorrow (weather permitting, which I’m sure is the constant expression here!) and we still have the ruins of the Bishop’s and the Earl’s Palaces here in Kirkwall as well as the local museum!

 

m

xxx